Once I was out of the cities though, magic. The road to Takayama winds alongside a river, working its way up at an almost unnoticeable angle. This is easily the best road of the trip, making up for Gifu big time. It even has a sidewalk most of the time! At one point I had an old highway all to myself. Cars got a tunnel, I got river views and saw a weird temple on a rock outcrop beside the river. Very cool.

Am now in unknown village at a cheap ryokan. Owner has cute English.