I know Emi too well to bother suggesting it was possible for me to make my own dinner, or at least go out and get it. Besides, apparently the sister in law wanted to meet me.

Had dinner, met her 2 sons, got thoroughly trounced in a few video games, and off to the festival.

The usual mix of dances markets and fireworks, but the atmosphere was magical. It always is.

Day 13
Goal: Itami

Estimated distance: 50
Distance traveled: 39.85

Average speed: 18.04

Mountains: 0
Tunnels: 0


City riding is no fun. Too many lights to stop at, inevitably just as I was getting up to a decent speed. Grr.

Arrived at the Kubo's with a little bit of getting lost, but not bad for my firsT time finding it on my own.

Emi was taking part in a neighbourhood festival tonight, so was 'too busy to make me dinner'. Off to her sister in laws I went.

Damn Japanese kids are cute. Can I wrap one up and take it home with me？ It almost shocks me just how joyous they are at this festival.

What good timing. In Itami for a festival and a thunderstorm!

Now this is what I've been needing every afternoon- a nap. Yawn!

Made my way to the Kubo's house. They were my mum's host family, and lovely hosts. I made by memory and a city map at the train station, which I was pleased by.

Anyway, on to that nap. Later!

New top speed: 62.6 km/h. Some good did come of taking the skyway! :)

Also, broke the 5000 km mark on my odometer during the trip from Matsuyama. Not amazing for 2.5 years, but a mark I'm happy to pass.

Close to Shikoku's east coast, I took the 'short road' to 'the ferries.' This was called a skyline, and boy they weren't kidding. High slopes, almost no flat parts. I thought I was at the summit 3 times, only to turn a corner to see another incline. Then after going downhill a while, a new mountain began. Whee!

Whenever I say, "Gee, this road looks shorter," I should remember this, and the 'quick way to Beppu.'

No regrets though. Glorious scenery... just a bit painful.

So, no more islands for Eric!

Going back to this morning, I happened upon the most amazing tourist spot. On the mountain behind my hotel was a supposedly great temple. It wasn't, but right beside it was the 'private house museum.' Holy cow. At least 3 dozen houses from various time periods, transplanted from various places around Kyushu, set anong winding paths though bamboo forest. Magnificent. There was also an odd museum of 1st C. pottery and impressionist paintings.

Turns out there are tourist ferries, but foot passengers only. There was a bridge, but only for motor vehicles. Busses wouldn't take my bike, they claimed. The only thing to do, the locals decided, was hitch hike. They proceeded to make a sign for me, and point me towards the nearest entrance to the bridge.

A ton of vans and trucks passed me by, but it was a super nice guy in a car who actually stopped. I said anywhere on Awajima was fine, but wound up going to Kobe.

Day 12
Goal: Nandan
Actual destination: Kobe (!!)
Estimated distance: 70kms
Distance traveled: 68.9kms by bike, ~90 by car

Average speed: 18.06

Mountains: 1 freaking range (by choice!), ~5 short passes
Tunnels: 2


So, when one plans to ferry between islands, one should make sure it can be used. I got to east Shikoku fairly wiped out, and began looking for my ferry. My map being useless, I ask some locals for directions to the ferry. What ferry？ They replied.

It _looks_ like the typhoon swept over in my sleep. Yay!

Day 11
Goal: Yashima

Estimated distance: 50
Distance traveled: 51.58

Average speed: 18.06

Mountains: 1 (plus one crazy bridge that could almost count as one. Man alive.)
Tunnels: 2


So just a small ride to get me back into things. The typhoon was either really slow or really fast, but it didn't hit today. Gorgeous weather. However, one is really supposed to hit tomorrow. Geez. I thought Shikoku would be one of the best parts. Now I can't wait to get elsewhere.

All this ferry riding reminds me of life on the coast. Can't wait to be back.

Had a good but short time on Naoshima. The art museum was good, but a bit steep($20 for 6 exhibits) and annoyingly overpopulated with staff. Everything was well composed though, and the building itself was a treat. I dub it Fortress Art for it's constant use of concrete. Wish I'd managed to get an earlier ferry. Only two hours on island, most of it spent finding the place. (very badly signed)

Tomorrow I plan to start the next leg of my trip, so of course the next typhoon moves in. Good timing is obviously not the theme of my trip.

My current plan is to cycle to the nearest ferry port and visit Naoshima Island on my way back to Shikoku. There is an amazing modern art gallery there I really want to see. After that, I cycle along the north of Shikoku until I hit the east coast. Then, ferry to Awaji, island of beaches. And a ferry from there to Osaka. 3 days, I think.

Another lazy day in Okayama. This morning Andrea and I went to see the animated movie Steamboy, which is truly a tremendous piece of film making, but very talky and hard to understand. It didn't help that the theatre had terrible speakers- background music always drowned out the character conversations.

Anyway, Andrea had the morning off because she worked an evening shift. She's helping out with an international conference this week. So, lunch was the last I'll see of her..

OK anime freaks among you, look up an anime called Paranoid Agent if you want to break your minds. Wow.

Today was low-key. Did laundry in the morning, got new funky glasses, and toured the sites. Okayama has a nice castle (from the outside), and an excellent garden - one of the top 3 in Japan supposedly.

After that I met up with Andrea, who is super busy at work these days. I won't be able to hang out with her as much as I'd like, but we've had a good time.

As I lay here sweltering, I appreciate how spoiled I've become by hotels with the air con on overnight. And here I thought I was gaining a tolerance for the heat!

To sleep at my friend Andrea's place. Yawn!

Had a fairly pleasant train ride to Okuyama, and carrying around my bike in its cover was easy. Figuring out how to set up the bike to put in the cover took a bit of time.

Andrea was coming back from Osaka, so we met at the station. After that, a bit of orientation around the 'hood, dinner, then karaoke! Haven't done that in ages. Too fun.

Tomorrow I clean my laundry, and replace my glasses. Hopefully do some sightseeing too.

Man this is a giant bridge. Crosses from Shikoku to the mainland in one go. Wish there was a bike lane! But maybe the winds are too heavy this high up... o.O

Oh, there is an island mid way along. The on ramps are crazy- 3 loops!

Cloudy and rainy again this morning, so on a train for me. If I had dry shoes and socks, I'd go for it, but I don't, and I don't relish getting a cold.

Now, chilling to some tunes on my iPod and drawing. Tis nice to be doing that again. Not sure why I stopped!

Advice for people- do not, if you stop to take a picture, put your glasses on your head, then lean over a cliff for a better angle. Whoops.

Funny stories today. This morning, my front tire was squeaking and driving me crazy. I stopped at a gas station to see if they knew any nearby bike shops. One of the workers drove me there. Quite a character. He would turn on red lights, then assure me itwas ok, because this was the country. So, we get to the shop, and the guy is literally 90 years. I don't think he'd seen a mountain bike before. He just kind of stared at the gears for a while, before giving up. Ah country life!

The way down was amazingly long. Couldn't believe I'd been so high up. Gorgeous intertwined mountains all around, and running along a river the whole way.

After that it was near the sea, and I was feeling good. I could have probably kept going much furter, except that Mother Nature decided that typhoon didn't bring enugh water to the area. Holy cow did it come down.

All my clothes are either drenched or dirty, and laundry service is closed on Sundays. Whee!

Day 6
Goal: 5 hours ofriding (actually 5h 43m)
Estimated distance: 70ish
Distance traveled: 111.82

Average speed: 18.31

Mountains: 2 (one about 200m, the other maybe 120m)
Tunnels: 1 (uphill, boo!)


So, the typhoon actually did clear by 9, so off I went! Once more, I felt pretty crap at the start, but got a rhythm after my first mountain. And what a mountain! Gorgeous valley leading up- saw it well as I walked most of it.

Bloody rain is still here, heavier than ever. Doubt its going to pass over by 9AM like the weather reports claimed. Do I stay here one more day and take the train to Okuyama on the 2nd, or take a train later tonight to somewhere further on my route, and hope the weather's clear enough for riding tomorrow？ I definately need to at least change hotels. This place was a treat. Three nights is just too much.